Don’t buy into the hype of megapixels. YOu need to understand, there is a LOT more to picture quality than megapixels – for example shutter speed, aperture options etc.
Megapixels are something that a lot of manufacturers bump up to up the cost of their cameras – but believe me, if you’re a ‘point and shoot’ type, 6, 7, 8 MP is plenty – and it will save money so that you can buy a higher end camera with that number of megapixels, rather than a piece of junk with the 10-12 you were originally looking for.

Read the geek pages (gizmodo, engadget), search for megapixels and you’ll find a million articles talking about how NOT important MPs are above a certain point, unless you really want to be a professional photographer – in which case point and shoot is not what you want, nor is thin – you’ll want the biggest, m

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http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IKLJU0?ie=UTF8&tag=ad107-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002IKLJU0

or Canon SX20

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LITT3I?ie=UTF8&tag=ad107-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002LITT3I

but if you want compact one Panasonic Lumix DMC-ZS3 use 25mm ultra-wide-angle lens

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QFZMCO?ie=UTF8&tag=ad107-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001QFZMCO

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When your digital camera takes a picture, it records WAY more colors in the image than you can see with the naked eye. What most cameras do is compress this huge image by getting rid of certain layers of the color. If you try messing around with the white balance, you can see different methods of compression at work – "indoor" white balance records the colors from spectrum a to b, while "cloudy" or "tungsten" or whatever records the colors from spectrum x to y, making the pictures look slightly different, even though they’re taken in the same place at the same time. In other words, you’re telling your camera to make the choice about what spectrum it’s going to record automatically. A RAW file is the complete, uncompressed image. What you have to do with a RAW file is download it onto your computer and use a RAW converter to manually select how you want the image to be compressed (into a .jpg that can be used as a regular image file). The main difference is that when you shoot in .jpg, the camera makes the decision for you, so if you start tweaking with the color or contrast or whatever later, the image isn’t as big and some of the quality can be compromised. When you shoot RAW, the camera records everything and YOU make the decision later about how to compress without sacrificing any quality or size. Unless you’re a professional photographer or you need to enlarge your photos to a size larger than 11×17, you probably don’t need to be shooting in RAW (unless you just want to try it out for fun).

DCC and DC analogue use the same track. The only difference is in the power supply and any powered device, such as locomotives. Any analogue layout can be converted, at any time, to DCC. Simply install the power supply and install the decoders in the locomotive. Once this is done, analogue locomotives cannot be operated on the layout, (with a few exceptions)

The decoder is the key to DCC operation. In analogue, the motor inside the locomotive is electrically connected to the rails. In DCC, the motor is disconnected from the rails and attached to the decoder. The decoder then draws power from the rails.

There are some considerations for connecting the DCC supply to the track. These will normally be covered by the installation instructions. If I understand the question correctly, you want to start with analogue (price) and upgrade later to DCC (power) If so, by all means, do it. Should you be starting with DCC, and wanting to add analogue locomotives later, it is merely a matter of installing the decoders in the locomotives as they are acquired.

In either case, DCC is the greatest thing to happen to Model Railroading since the discovery of electricity. Well, standardization (NMRA) helps a little, too. In the reference link, look for the DCC pages. They get technical fast, but this is the organization that sets the standards for the hobby.

Again, based on the earlier assumption, cars rolling stock) should be 100% compatible across the board for a given scale. An exception being any car that is electrically active. Some thought may be necessary there, but will depend on the specific car and what it does.

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wifi connectivity (already in nikon) that can let u blog it automatically
should be able to share it immediately to other users on phone/pda/camera.

image stabilisation should be improved so shaky hands is no problem.

user interface also shud be improved to make it fool proof.

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So am I pregnant according to those or not? I’m confused.

Your probably not pregnant unfortunatly, the digital test doesn’t work the same as a regular test.